Josie Travels

Much like the Great Wall of China, the Terracotta Warriors of Xi’an are very famous, which means they are very popular with tourists. Sometimes I try to avoid the most touristy things on my travels unless it involves spectacular views, but some things are worth battling the crowds, and this was one of them. I had low expectations, I mean, it’s just some men carved from clay, right?

Xi’an

After a lovely day exploring the caves of Luoyang, I hopped on a train to Xi’an which took a little under 2 hours (booked via Trip.com), excited to be visiting such a well known city. I spent two nights at So Young City Center Hostel, a modern and clean place with spacious rooms, comfy beds with curtains, and a great restaurant upstairs to hang out and meet other travellers. Nearby by is Cyclist Resaurant, known for its tasty food (try the pizza) and good selection of craft beers!

I didn’t do much while I was in the city itself. A bit of shopping in my favourite Asian store – MiniSo, walked past the impressive Bell Tower in the middle of a busy roundabout, and stopped for some incredible street food just north of the Xi’an Drum Tower Museum. I also walked down to the Xi’an City Wall, I didn’t have the energy to go up there and explore the whole thing but you can rent bikes which makes it quicker and more fun!

The Terracotta Warriors

Getting there

Getting there can be a pain as it’s actually quite far from the city. You can book a day trip if you’re into that kind of thing, or you can make your own way there on public transport which is affordable and easy but takes around 2 hours each way. It used to be as simple as catching bus 306 from just outside theXi’an Railyway Station, but since 2019 it’s changed. Here’s a link with all the up-to-date information you’ll need on the new bus routes!

When you arrive at Bingmayong Station you’ll find yourself on the outskirts of the huuuuuge museum complex and it’s another 1km to the entrance, there are golf carts for those who don’t want to walk. Once you’re there you need to buy a ticket, ¥120 – ¥ 150 (£13.30 – £16.60) per person depending on the season and, I can’t recommend this enough, rent an audio guide! It only costs ¥40 (£4.50) with a ¥200 deposit, and it will make the experience so much better when you can hear about the little details that make this place so impressive.

The history

Qin Shi Huang became the first emperor of China after conquering and unifying the warring kingdoms. He believed that one should live in death as they lived in life, so he started to build the terracotta army as soon as he rose to the throne in 246BC to grant him endless power and protect his kingdom in the afterlife.

It took over 700,000 workers about 40 years to construct the huge masoleum complex, some registered and some by force. More than 8,000 soldiers, 130 chariots, and 670 horses have been uncovered so far, and there are thought to be more still waiting. The height of a terracotta warrior, from the head to the base, is between 170cm and181cm, and each one weighs between 100kg and 250kg.

The most fascinating thing about them is the fact that a few different molds were used to create the bodies of the warriors but each one was then individually carved by one of 80 master potters and no two are alike. Take a closer look at the soldiers and you’ll notice the difference in hairstyles, facial features and expressions, even the uniforms. They were originally painted with natural pigments, and it was safely preserved this way until excavated and exposed to the air.

The site was discovered in 1974 by local farmers while digging a well, and it was first opened to the public in 1979. Weapons were well preserved, archaeologists have found over 40,000 bronze weapons including battle axes, crossbows, arrowheads and spears. Emperor Qin’s tomb still hasn’t been excavated but it’s thought to house priceless artifacts to rival those of the pyramids.

Pit 1

This is the first pit you’ll come to, and it’s by far the largest in the complex. Insided are over 6000 life-size and life-like warriors and horses arranged in a battle formation, composed of infantry, cavalry, chariot warriors and archers. So far only 1000 have been excavated, and as you walk through you will see the excavation team hard at work to uncover and repair even more. It’ll probably be the busiest part of the day, but you will be able to find a little bit of space along the railing to see the army in all its glory.

Pit 3

The next pit you should enter is actually Pit 3. It’s the smallest of the three and has been fully excavated. There are 68 warriors in this pit, although most of them are missing their heads, and one charriot pulled by four horses. experts think this is the headquarters of the entire terracotta army from the way they are arranged, the blunt ceremonial weapons, and the unique charriot which is so different to those in Pit 1.

Pit 2

The last pit you should visit is Pit 2, although not fully excavated it houses all types of terracotta warriors including infantry, cavalry, chariot warriors and archers, with more complex combat formations and complete units. There are over 80 war chariots, 1300 warriors and horses, and thousands of bronze weapons. Next to the pit is the Exhibition Hall of Historical Relics of Emperor Qin Shihuang’s Mausoleum and here you will find relics and warriors unearthed from the pits, including pottery and weapons.

The verdict

I had low expectations for this particular tourist attraction in China. Why? Because it’s just some old clay figures in a pit. Was I wrong to feel that way? Absolutely. It’s freaking amazing. I can’t get across with words or photos how awe-inspiring it is to see such a famous place in real life, to hear the history behind them and the immense work that went into creating and excavating them. You can’t imagine the scale of it all, the size of the pits and numbers of warriors, then to learn that each one is an individual hand carved and painted, and that they have survived for over 2,200 years!? A M A Z I N G .

If you’re reluctant to go because of the crowds, then go as early in the morning as you can, it opens at 8am and tour buses will usually arrive at 10am. Another option is to visit around 12pm when the majority of people will be having lunch. Even if you go during the busier time, you will usually be able to find a space along the railings so you can get a good view into the pit without hordes of people blocking your view, but you still might get pushed around a bit, that seems to be unavoidable in China. Just be sure to avoid public holidays.

You can view the full album here.

You can also follow the adventure on Facebook and Instagram!